Category Archives: Kitchen

Ultimate Foodie Gift Guide 2011

Many women angle for jewelery, others make-up. For me (no shock here), it’s all about food and drink (and some minor home improvements)! Below, find the edible presents I’m hoping to receive or own and heartily recommend this season (I know, I know, some of these are a bit extravagant, but I can dream!):

  1. Custom spice blend from La Boite a Epice in Manhattan: The most recent issue of Food & Wine Magazine profiles Lior Lev Sercarz, the founder of this spice boutique in New York City’s Hell’s Kitchen. I’m dreaming of my own customized mixture, or at least, a few of the already-created blends made for expert chefs, such as Ana Sortun of Cambridge, MA’s Oleana and Sofra Restaurants. www.laboiteny.com (price unknown)
  2. Hamilton Beach 6 Quart Programmable Stovetop Slow Cooker (33567T): Since beginning work on my slow cooker cookbook for The Taunton Press, I’ve fallen increasingly hard for slow cooking–and this new reasonably-priced appliance makes the technique even easier! Brown meats and saute aromatics in the stovetop-safe crock. No more dirtying an extra pan or losing precious fond (brown bits) on the bottom of the pan! www.hamiltonbeach.com, about $75
  3. Davao White Chocolate Bar + Pistachios from Askinosie Chocolates. I love the subtle tang that goat’s milk lends to chocolate, and am further tempted by the addition of gorgeous, rich pistachios. www.askinosie.com, $10.50
  4. Any treats, especially petit fours, from Valerie Confections in LA. A couple of years ago, I received a shipment of their petit fours, and was entranced. Now I’m itching to try the rose petal and ginger varieties. www.valerieconfections.com, $50 for 12 petit fours.
  5. A trip to my favorite (domestic) foodie destination: Northern CA. As always, I would make a pilgrimage to San Fran’s Ferry Plaza Market, try Cotogna Restaurant (the casual offshoot of Quince) and Manresa, and spend a few days in the Napa Valley, returning to Ubuntu and the Oxbow Public Market, and trying new restaurants that have cropped up since my last visit.
  6. Decorative painting of my tired kitchen cabinetry. I would love the nicked, farmhouse-y wood to be coated in a creamy off-white matte finish. There’s no better way to wake up a blah or outdated kitchen.
  7. A larger outdoor grill. We can’t cook burgers, hot dogs, veggies, and BBQ chicken rapidly enough with our standard Weber Genesis Silver B model.
  8. …And while we’re on the subject of outdoor entertaining, a standing heat lamp (to extend outdoor entertaining season in my neck of the woods: Southern New England), a large and attractive umbrella or awning, and a fire pit.
  9. An outdoor shower. I know it’s not food-related, but my husband and I are still dreaming of the one we enjoyed at Manka’s Inverness Lodge in California’s Marin County. Cue in bird song and the aromas of eucalyptus and redwood. Need I say more?
  10. Black truffle butter, the perfect complement to rib eye steaks.
  11. A selection of varietal honeys, including some I’ve never tried, such as California’s stir thistle.
  12. Sea urchin. I have yet to try it, and am eager to do so.
  13. A new fridge, preferably a Sub-Zero (told you I was dreaming!). The model I inherited is over 20 years old, and on its last gasp.
  14. High-quality tea (especially flavored black and green) and coffee, such as The Perfect Sip Allegro Coffee gift set available at Whole Foods Markets. www.wholefoodsmarket.com/products/774
  15. Gift certificates to Dean & Deluca, Williams-Sonoma, Balducci’s

Should I add anything to this list? Let me know, and have a happy and healthy holiday season!

Too Much Ruined Nonstick Cookware?

The routine’s been getting old: Every few months, I’m back on Amazon replacing my 10-inch nonstick sauté pan. Why? Each time, the surface cracks and begins to discolor.  When I turned to a very informative article in The New York Times, I learned that I’d been mistreating my pans. I patted myself on the back for spreading oil on the entire inside surface before heating them and using soft materials when cleaning them. Yet, I’d been committing another nonstick pan sin: cooking over high heat.

It’s not surprising why I’d been doing this. First, I’d been trained in cooking school to sear over high heat, which yields golden brown, crusty surfaces with lots of flavor. Secondly, in their recipes, top food magazines and cookbooks instruct readers to sear over medium-high or high heat in nonstick pans. Maybe the article had been wrong? I wondered.

I decided to investigate further, by turning to nonstick pan manufacturers to get their guidance on high heat cooking. A Calphalon customer service rep told me not to exceed medium or medium high; meanwhile, an All-Clad rep told me not to go above medium heat for ANY of their pans (even their regular ones). That came as a shock.

While the Circulon Web site advised not cooking over high heat, one of their reps said that I could do so, but only for short periods of time. Finally, the Analon and T-Fal Web sites also recommended against cooking over high heat. Why? High heat can degrade the nonstick surface. From my own experiences, I have to agree.

My conclusion after this research: Sure, cooking over lower heat can be frustrating (almost emasculating), akin to abiding by the speed limit when it’s only 20 or 25 miles per hour. However, I’m tired of replacing my nonstick pans.

From now on, I plan to primarily use my cast iron pan when cooking over high heat, as I did a couple of nights ago with pan-seared chicken thighs. After all, the cast iron conducts heat well and can tolerate high temperatures. I’ll save my nonstick cookware for dishes that wouldn’t benefit from a good sear, such as frittatas and vegetable sautés. I’m also curious about the Green Earth frying pan, available at Amazon.com, a nonstick pan whose ceramic interior can–according to its manufacturer–tolerate very high temperatures. Has anyone used it? What do you think of it? I’d love to start a dialogue about this.

Spring (Kitchen) Cleaning

Oils and Vinegars

Oils and Vinegars

Spring-cleaning. There’s something so invigorating about the phrase–and the practice. That’s why, a few weeks ago, I found myself rummaging through my pantry, fridge, and freezer in full-on Peter Walsh mode (minus the square glasses and goatee).

My mission: to end up with a pared-down kitchen whose contents were completely known to me. That way, I’d remember what I had, use it, and avoid food waste. My tactics: to get rid of anything expired or that I wouldn’t touch (dried basil, I know where you’re hiding!). Most importantly, I resolved to buy less–and to make sure that what I did buy was versatile and nourishing (trans fats, corn syrup, and tons of sugar, you’re not welcome!).

This was a bit of a challenge. After all, I often gave in to my voracious desire to taste anything that sounded interesting, compelling, or novel. Rangpur lime syrup? What’s that? I’ve got to try it, was my typical thought process. Other times, I’d see a recipe–usually for a dish from an unfamiliar cuisine–and end up purchasing an array of ingredients to prepare it. Hence, my pantry, which looked like a mini gourmet food emporium.

But, the birds were chirping, the rhododendrons were blossoming, and I was determined. Spring was calling–and so was my cluttered kitchen. So, out went bottles and bottles of exotic fruit syrups, sugary marinades that had been given to me as gifts, cans of soup meant to consume by early 2010, the aforementioned dried basil, and spice blends (I like to have more control over my seasoning).

The process was cathartic, and kind of fun. And the results were compelling: my ingredient inventory is more familiar to me, and I’ve been using more of what I have.

The past couple of weeks, I’ve been relying on the small box of pectin powder I purchased years ago to cook up homemade jam. I’ve made miso soup twice, with the bonito (tuna) flakes and dried kombu (kelp) that I found at the back of my pantry. I’ve been drizzling the artisanal sorghum molasses I received as a gift before my second son was born on my berries for dessert at night. And I’ve been dreaming about how to use the black truffle salt I purchased from Dean & Deluca nearly six months ago.

Clothing closet and basement freezer, you’re up next!

Sweet Ingredients